Buttonhole-sewing machine.



J. KIEWICZ. EUTTONHOLE SEWING MAGHINE. APPLICATION FILED JUNE 10,1912. y 1,083,284, Patented Jan. 6, 1914.

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J. KIEWIG'Z. BuTToNHoLB SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED JUNE 10,1912.

1,083,284, Pantedgan. e, 1914.

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nirnn s'rafrns JOI-IN KIEWIC'Z, OF HYDE PARK, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIG-NOR TO THE REECE BUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY, 0F BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

To all whom t may concern Be it known that I, JOHN Krnwrcz, a citi- Zen of the United States, residing at Hyde Park, in the county of Norfolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Buttonhole- Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification, reference being .had therein to the accompanying drawing.

My invention relates to button hole sewing machines, particularly of that type which is known to the trade as the Reece button. hole machine, wherein a stitch frame carrying the stitch forming mechanism on the one hand and a work clamp or support on the other hand, is relatively movable Vso as to enable the stitching to be carried along the sides of the button hole and around itsl end or ends. Such lstitch forming mecha` nism comprises needle carrying the upper thread and, be-l lo-w and opposed thereto, the so-called complemental stitch forming mechanism or under-sewing mechanism, which carries and operates an under thread in cooperation with the needle carrying the upper thread.l

Types of under-sewing mechanism are known and illustrated in the following prior Letters Patent, namely: 494,280 of Mar.V 28, 1893, 498,216 of May 23, 1893, 655,637 of Aug. 7, 1900, 684,046 of Oct. 8, 1901, 692,904 of Feb. 11, 1902, 695,039 of Mar. 11, 1902.

As will be seen by reference to the above recited prior patents, heretofore known under-sewing mechanisms for button hole sewing machines are extremely complicated and include many and irregularly shaped machine parts, relatively movable and immovable, causing great difficulty in design and construction and adjustment and repair, thereby involving excessive rst cost and maintenance. It has been heretofore understood that extreme complication was necessary or inherent in such mechanism. Perhaps more so in this than in any other mechanism, improvements of simplification are both difficult and highly desired. Any improvement rendering the mechanism simpler, dispensing with one or moreV parts theretofore required, or enabling diflicult parts to be more easily constructed or more advantageously arranged in cooperation with other parts, would be highly useful not only because of simplification and cheapp Spe'cicaton of Letters Patent.

Application lcd .Tune 10, 1912.

usually an eye-pointedl BUTTONHOLE-SEWING MACHINE.

Patented Jan. 6, 1914.

Serial No. 702,727.

"improvement to effect such simplification as just referred to, particularly by eliminating parts and by more advantageously disposing parts which are retained.

The further and more detailed objects hereof will be set forth in the hereinafter description or will be obvious to those skilled in the art.

I will first refer to my preferred embodiment of my present improvement as applied to a type of mechanism in which the movements of the needles and looper are substantially the same as in the aforesaid patent 695,039, granted Mar. 11, 1902 upon the invention of W. W. Dixon, and I will thereafter point out the novel features in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings forming a part hereof, Figure 1 is a partial right-hand side elevation of al button hole sewing machine of the charatcer heretofore referred to and embodying my present improvements. Fig. 2 shows in elevation detached from the other parts the circularly moving block or stock containing the under-sewing mechanism or the so-called complemental stitch forming mechanism, the same being seen in what may for convenience be termed a rear view. Fig. 3 is a left-hand side elevation of the circularly moving stock and under-sewing mechanism. Fig. 4 is a righthand side elevation of the same, the parts being seen in the same view as in Fig. 1. Fig. 5 is a front elevation of the machine as it would be seen looking fro-1n the left-hand side of Fig. 1, certain parts being broken away and others shown in section for better disclosure of the interior. Fig. 6 is a top plan view of the under-sewing mechanism as seen in Figs. 2, 3 and 4. Fig. 7 is a horizontal section taken on the plane 7-7 of Fig. 5. Figs. 8, 9, 10 and 11 are detail views of parts of the lower needle fittings.

Similar letters of reference designate corresponding parts in the several figures of the drawings.

Certain parts are shown and may all be as in said Dixon patent, requiring therefore no detailed or other description except as follows, namely: the clamp frame 1, the casing 2 containing the needle bar 3, it carrying an eye-pointed needle 4 for manipulating the upper thread, said needle bar and its casing being in practice mounted in the stitch frame already referred to but not herein shown, the curb or cam casing 5 in practice secured to the movable stitch frame so as to travel with it under the clamp frame, said casing 5 having suitable adjustable headed bolts 6 which bear against smooth ways 7 at the under side of the clamp frame, the rod S deriving its motion from a cam in the stitch frame, the cutter 9 and its carrying lever 10, the under thread needle 11, the needle carrier 12 to which it is attached, the stock or block 14, said block having the circular upper end 15 adapting it to receive at suitable times a circular movement, the gear 16 fast on a sleeve 17 extending from block 14, the tension device 18 for the under thread, the looper 19, the looper carrier 19a, and the throat plate- 20; also the circular ring-like portion 21 of the casing 5, which receives within it the circular upper end 15- of the block 14, and depending from said ring 21 a loop 22 having formed through it centrally at its lower end an opening of such size as to loosely7 receive hollow hub 23 of gear 16, the gear being applied to the sleeve 17 and fixed there by a suitable nut 24.

The sleeve 17 has extended through it the hollow rod or bar 25, said rod receiving through the opening in its lower end the second or underneath thread, such thread being passed upwardly through the rod 25 and into the under thread carrier 11. rlhe thread may pass out of the hollow rod 25 through an aperture 2G, passing about the tension device 18 before passing to theunder thread needle 11.l

The rod 25 has fixed to it below the gear 16 a ball or enlargement 27, it being as herein shown embraced between two loose cup-shaped disks 28 and 29, both loosely surrounding the rod 25 and contacting the ball 27, said disks being borne respectively upon the two forks 30, 31 of a lever 32 pivoted at 33 between two depending curved hangers 34, 34, these hangers being connected in a suitable manner as by screws 35, with the loop-shaped depending portion 22 above referred to.

The lever 32 is connected with the rod 8 as shown so that the cam operated movement of the rod causes the oscillation of the lever 32 and thereby reciprocatcs upwardly and downwardly the hollow rod or bar 25.

In continuing the description of the machine illustrated in the drawings hereof, I will refer to the new parts supplied by me and to the new arrangements and combinations of parts, during which reference will necessarily be made to parts which per se are not new herein but are for the first time employed in the novel inter-relations and arrangements which I seek to cover.

The oscillatory block 14, which may take any physical form, I shall term the stock, as it is merely a carriage or frame for supporting the various working parts of the under mechanism. It shifts bodily, for eX- ample circularly, with all the working parts supported by it, and these parts themselves move as may be required for-stitching more or less independently of the stocks shifting.

Generally speaking the under sewing mechanism hereof comprises in combination the shiftable stock referred to (said block 14), and the following further elements supported by said stock, namely, a movable under needle lcarrier (the part 12), a movable thread looper (the hook shaped mem ber 19), a rnovable actuator (the up-anddown reciprocating rod 25) adapted to be exteriorly operated independently of the stocks shifting, and connections hereinafter to be more specifically described, whereby said actuator actuates both said carrier and said looper.

Before describing the manner of actuation of the needle carrier and looper and the con-V nections therefor, I shall refer to a convenient thread take-up or measuring contrive ance shown herein, but which per se forms no part of the present invention. This comprises a three-arm lever 36, 37, 38 pivoted at 39, the long arm 36 having at its extremity an eye or aperture for the thread, the/arm 37 having a spring 40for turning the lever leftwise in Fig. 2, and the levers oscillation being effected through a pin 41 on the up-anddown moving actuator rod 25. In order to adjust the movement of the lever an adjustable stop 42 is provided, a portion of which stands in the path of the arm 38 to limit to any desired degree the upward movement thereof. It will be understood that the carrier 12 isprovided with a thread guide, for example as shown at 43, with which the take-up arm 36 cooperates as in said Dixon patent.

The movement of the needle 11 and carrier 12 is a simple oscillation in the are 0f a circle, causing the needle to first pass upwardly through the button hole to a position above the fabric where it coperates with the upper needle, theunder needle then returning to a position beneath the fabric where it cooperates with both the looper and the upper needle in a well known manner.

The operation of the looper 19 is not a simple operation. On the contrary the looper has two motions, first a bodily to-andfro swinging toward and from the under needle, and second a slight oscillation with its carrier 19a upon thel fittings of the latter in a direction lateral to the to-and-fro swinging. The resultant of these two motions is a curved path. The purpose of this motion, as will be well understood, is that the looper which is hook shaped and barbed, may form the necessary loop in the upper thread at each successive descent of the upper needle so that the lower needle may in subsequently ascending pass through the loop, thus causing the interlocking of the two threads. Thus three movements are required to be provided for, namely the up-and-down oscillation of the needle and carrier, the longitudinal bodily swinging of the looper and the slight lateral oscillation of the latter. In the mechanism hereof these movements are all accomplished by substantially but four moving parts between the actuator 25 on the one hand and the needle and looper on the other hand, these four parts affording trains of mechanism which will now be referred to generally by reference numerals, following which will be a detailed description of the same and their fittings.

The novel and peculiar construction and fitting of the needle carrier 12 adapting it to the necessary needle movements is to be hereinbelow described in detail, but it may be stated at this point that an extension 50 constituting a permanent rigid part of the needle carrier is employed for making the connection with the actuator 25. The connection between the actuator and the needle carrier consists as shown of a single part, namely the intermediary or link 70 pivoted at its lower end to the actuato-r and at its upper end to the carrier through the eXtension 50 of the latter, as before stated. Each upward movement of the actuator causes an upward movement of the needle and vice versa.

The train of parts for longitudinally bodily swingingthe looper and its carrier 19a comprises the looper lever or cam lever 8O driven by a pin on the actuator 25, and shaft 90 by which the looper carrier is swiveled to the looper lever 80, the engagement of the pin and cam effecting the swinging of the looper lever and carrier.

The train of mechanism for causing the slight lateral oscillation of the looper and its carrier 19a comprises the same intermediary 70 already mentioned, the roller arm 100, whose roller is contacted by the cam-like side of the intermediary 70, the rock shaft 101 which is in one piece with the roller 100, and with its rock-arm 102 is oscillated by the movement of said roller arm, and the swinging arm 91 which is in one piece with the swivel shaft 90 and is contacted by said rockarm so that the oscillatory movement is transmitted to the swivel shaft and thereby to the looper lever and looper.

Before describing further the details o-f the trains of mechanism thus generally referred to, I will describe the needle carrier and its details of construction and fitting, which constitute an important part of the invention herein claimed.

I-Ieretofore as illustrated in said Dixon patent, the needle carrier has consisted of a curved slide fitted to an arc-shaped slideway or race, this construction serving to guide the needle in the arc of a circle. It has heretofore been considered necessary to so guide the needle in spite of the disadvantages of a curved race and slide, which are not only difiicult to construct and to keep in repair, but cause excessive resistance, friction and wear. I believe that I am the first to have substituted for this construction a needle carrier which oscillates about a shaft. There are certain inherent difculties, which will more fully appear hereinafter, in mounting the carrier upon a shaft about which it rotates, and I have overcome these difficulties by the construction to be recited. In my construction I consider the carrier as comprising the shaft, the means which holds the needle and metal which may be termed a spoke extending from the shaft to the holder.

Considering the nature of machines of the present type and the essential motion of the curved lower needle from its position below to above the fabric, it will be understood that the center of oscillation of the needle must be at an elevated point, in fact substantially at or relatively close to the level of the fabric itself or the plate which supports it during the sewing operation. rlhe farther the center of oscillation is displaced from the work the less truly will the needle pass vertically through the button-hole as it should. It must also be remembered that the under sewing mechanism as a whole has to be swung bodily around at diiferent stages of the formation of a button hole, and all of its parts during such movement must freely clear the'ixed parts of the machine so as to avoid accidental contact. An essential part 4) of the machine is shown for example in Fig. 2, which part has to be cleared as the under sewing mechanism circularly shifts. For these various reasons it has heretofore been found impossible to swing the needle about a shaft, since no way was devised for mount-ing and supporting the shaft, that would not have been prohibited on account of the interference above pointed out.

According to my invention I have enabled the employment of a shaft for this purpose by providing a mutilated shaft bearing.

and engaged therein a mutilated shaft 51, the latter connected by a spoke 52 to the needle holder 58 as before stated, and the shaft spoke and holder constituting the oscillating needle carrier. To these ends the stock 14.- cf the under sewing mechanism is provided with an attachment or lug 55 re-` cessed at 56 to' permit the carrier movements, and provided at its upper end with a mutilated bearing 54 for the mutilated shaft 51. The shaft 51 and bearing 54 are mutilated in the same sense that a mutilated gear is altered by depriving it of a material and substantial portion of its circumference. Since the carrier oscillates through approximately but one-eighth of t-he entire circle, the shaft ma)T be made considerably less in cross-section than a semicircle, and it is shown in fact as of a double convex cross-section engaging by its cylindrical or slightly conical under surface with the correspondingly constructed bearing, the latter also being considerably under a half circle in cross-section. By this construction and arrangement the carrier is enabled to oscillate about a center at which in fact no metal is required or provided,

and therefore the objects before recited are attained and the stock with under sewing mechanism may freely oscillate without interference of the needle carrier or its fittings with any of the parts of the machine eXterior to the under sewing mechanism.

Referring more in detail to the needle carrier 12 and its fittings, I call attention that Fig. 8 shows the carrier in rear view detached from the rest of the mechanism, while Fig. 9 shows a top view of the same, and from these figures it will be seen that the carrier comprises the four parts heretofore referred to, namely extension 50, shaft 51, spoke 52, needle holder 53. The shaft 51 being mutilated requires means to hold it in place or in engagement with its bearing 54, and such means are clearly indicated in Figs. 6, 8 and 9 and other figures.

1 prefer to hold the shaft in place by means of interlocking ribs or fianges formed or provided on the shaft and bearing respectively. Thus a forwardly extending flange 57 on the shaft, .and anothersimilar flange 58 are indicated in the figures, each of these being longitudinal and arc-shaped. An arc-rib 59 on or forming part of the bearing 54 engages inside of the fiange 58 as clearly shown in Fig. 6. A. different construct-ion is employed for engaging the arcfiange 57. This comprises a detachable and adjustable piece 60 shown separately in Figs. 10 and 11, and having at its upper rear side an arc 61 which fits within the arc-flange 57. The piece 60 must be nicely adjusted to avoid either a too loose or a too tight engagement, and for this purpose it is provided with a centering rib 62 near its lower end, engaging a groove 63 in the lug 55, see Fig. 5, with a holding screw 64 passing through an elongated hole 64Ct in the piece 60, so as to permit slight upward and downward adjustment. The piece 60 is also provided being then tightened to permanently secure the parts in their adjustment.

Fig. 6 shows in top view the result of this arrangement, and it will be seen that so far as the arc-flanges 57 and 58 are concerned, the shaft 51 is removable in a rearward direction.

A convenient means for holding the shaft against longitudinal movement rearwardly, comprises a bridge piece 66 extending across from one side to the other of the lug 55, this bridge piece having in its middle and as near as possible to the center of the shaft, an adjustable contact 67 consisting preferably of a small circular disk engaged in a corresponding recess in the front of the bridge, a centrally positioned screw 68 for adjusting the disk 67 toward the bearing,

and a lock nut 69 for securing the screw in place.

By the described arrangement the shaft 51 is capable of an easy motion of oscillation in its bearing, and although shaft and bearing are both mutilated, they are vheld in accurate oscillating engagement my means of the interengaging flanges and ribs, and by the contact disk 67.

Having now described the littings of the needle carrier, I will fully describe the details of the connection by the intermediary 70 between the actuator 25 and the needle carrier l2.

Mounted fiXedly upon the actuator 25 is a block 71, one purpose of which is to afford, to the left-hand ofthe actuator as shown in Fig. 5, a pivot point for the intermediary link 70. The block 71 is secured to the actuator by a screw 72 which enables relative adjustment. The lower end of the intermediary is pivotally connected to the block 71 by a pivot screw 73, indicated in dotted lines in Figs. 3 and 4 as of a type having a globular enlargement engaging a semi-spherical interior surface in the link 70 soas to permit a slight universal play which takes care of the variation in the angle at which the link extends owing to the inclined movement of the needle and carrier. At the upper end of link 70 is a similar pivot screw 74 connecting the link with the L- shaped extension 50 connected to or forming part of the needle carrier 12. The extension 50 is so shaped as shown that its pivot connection with the intermediary enables the latter by an up and down movement to properly effect a swinging of the extension 50 and thereby an oscillation of the needle carrier and needle. Thus yin the present invention there is but one movable part between the actuator 25 and the needle carrier 12, namely the intermediary link 70.

The cam lever 80, best seen in Fig. 2, which effects the bodily longitudinal swinging of the looper and its carrier, is anextremely irregularly shaped lever and is in fact for convenience composed of two pieces of metal secured rigidly together when in operation, both of which are fitted on a common stud 81. The cam part 82 of lever 80 is eccentrically slotted as shown, and is engaged by a pin 83 secured in and projecting rearwardly from the actuator 25, so that .said pin as it is caused to rise, passes into the eccentric cam portion, causing the swinging thereof. The yoke part 811 of lever 80 is likewise fittedover stud 81, and the two parts 82 and 84; of the lever are secured together so as to constitute substantially a single lever through a screw 85 passing directly through the cam part 82 into the yoke part 8&1. The two branches of the yoke part 84e' are drilled to afford bearings for swivel shaft 90, which passes through both branches ofthe yoke part to where at its upper end it has rigidly connected to it the looper carrier'19a. By this construction and arrangement the looper carrier borne upon the lever 80 is caused to swing bodily to right and left for a distance, for example, approximately equa'ling half the length of the looper.

The loopers oscillation is attained partly through the intermediary 70 before mentioned. Said intermediary at its lower end, Fig. 5, is provided with a cam 75 of the necessary contour to produce the proper looper' oscillation The cam 7 5 shown has an apex near its center from which it inclines away both above and below, the cam being for convenience constructed in two parts.

As already stated the cam 75 engages roller arm 100, said arm having a roller 103 on its extremity for that purpose. The upand-down cam movements cause the roller to move left and right in Fig. 5, thereby causing the arm to swing and causing the rock shaft 101 to oscillate. The upper end of the rock shaft is curved into what may for convenience be termed a. rock arm 102, and this necessarily partakes of the shafts oscillation. As seen in Figs. 4, 5 and 6, the rock arm 102 contacts directly behind the swinging arm 91, whereby the rock-arms oscillation causes the swinging arms swing- Tt will be noticed that the contactof rockarm 102 and swinging arm 91 is substantially an axial contact, that is axial of the axis or pivot 81 about which the looper reciproca-tes. This advantageous arrangement permits the employment of f a slnall light pushing spring 92, composed for convenience of spring wire, which presses inwardly against the swinging arm 91, thus keeping it in forcible contact with the rock-arm and thus also exerting a pressure against the rock-arm which serves to keep the roller 103 of the rock shaft in constant contact with its actuating cam 75.

It will be noticed that the intermediary link 70, simple though it is, performs two services, namely acting as a connection for swinging the needle, and providing a cam for swinging the rock-arm. The use of such a link dispenses with the need of an inverted T-shaped lever and other parts necessitated thereby. The oH-setting of the links lower end to the left of the actuator affords the double purpose of giving a more advantageous direction of push and pull for the needle carrier extension 50, and of properly locating the cam 7 5 for cooperation with the roller arm 100 of the rock shaft.

The operation of the present invention will now be sufficiently understood by those skilled in the art.

When the under needle is in lowest positionr the hooked end of the looper partly surroundsthe needle path and holds a loop of upper thread. Then the parts are in this position the actuator is in its lowest position. In operation it will be understood that the actuator vibrates upwardly and downwardly with extreme rapidity. On each vibration of the actuator the following operations occur: The under needle commences to rise through the loop of upper thread, and at the same time the looper commences to oscillate in a direction, referring to Fig. 2, away from the observer, thus clearing the barb of the looper from the needle path to permit the loopers subsequent longitudinal movement.. During this rst portion of the operations, the looper is not being reciprocated or swung longitudinally because the looper lever cam 82 presents a straight or concentric portion to the pin 83. As these motions continue the loopers maximum oscillation from the observer is attained when the roller 103 has reached the apex of the cam 75, and atthe same time the pin 83 commences to enter the eccentric portion of the looper lever cam 82, the needle continuously ascending. Thereafter the looper lever commences to swing, thus reciprocating the looper to the right, the looper at the same time oscillating toward the observer until eventually the looper has attained its extreme right-hand position, Fig. 2, in a curved path, and the needle has reached its highest position. Thereupon the operations are exactly reversed upon the descent of the actuator. It will of course be understood that the upper needle is vertically vibrating in harmony with the under sewing mechanism, and it will also be understood that the ato-r 25 carrying it. To this end the righthand surface 77 of the block, Fig. 7, is fiattened to afford contact surface, and the vertical side portion of the stock 14 is adapted to coperate therewith, for example by a pair of opposed screw attached strips 78 slightly adjustable toward and fro-m the block 71 by reason of having screw holes larger than the screws, so that the strips can be secured permanently in the posit-ion indicated in Figs. 5 and 7 and for the purposes referred to. Fig. 2 shows the reverse side of the `block 71, and thereto is seen attached a plate 79 which extends upwardly for the purpose of carrying the pin 41 heretofore referred to, and which plate is centrally apertured at 26 fo-r the passage of the under thread.

It will thus be seen that I have provided an under sewing mechanism for button hole sewing machines which possesses the advantages and attains the objects hereinbefore recited, and further and other advantages will be apparent to those familiar with the art.

The following remarks are made to afford a better understanding of the appended claims: The cam lever 80 comprising the parts 82 and 8a is the lever which carries the looper in its longitudinal movements, and will therefore be termed a looper lever. The following parts may all be termed connect-ions or connecting devices, namely, the cam and roller 7 5, 103, the link 70, the pivotal or swivel shaft 90, and the pin and cam 82, 83. The contact between rock arm 102 and swinging arm 91, while not strictly a connection is a direct engagement for which obviously might be substituted an indirect form of engagement. Indeed for any of the connections referred to, reversals might be made or other connections substituted, and I therefore do not intend any limitation to the details hereof except-ing as set forth in the appended claims respectively. IVhere a member is composed of parts which in use are permanently and rigidly secured together in fixed relation, such member may be termed a one-piece member, although it is not a single integral piece of metal. The bodily longitudinal swinging of the looper with the looper lever 80 will be termed a reciprocation as distinguished from the slight oscillation of the looper about its swivel shaft 90.

That I claim and desire to secure by Leti ters Patent is:

1. In a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling under and upper threads, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination a stock provided with a mutilated bearing, mechanism for reciprocating an under needle carrier, and an under needle carrier having the following united parts: a mutilated shaft enhaving its axis of rotation in a constant position vrelatively to said stock, needle holding means, and at least one swinging arm extending from said shaft to said holding means, said shaft, holding means and arm being rigidly united intoa ,single member or carrier, and the whole soV arranged and constructed as to cause the needle .to travel up and down in a curved path substantially about an axis higher than any portion of the carrier.

3. In a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling under and upper threads, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination a stock provided with a. mutilated bearing, mechanism for reciprocating an under .needle carrier, and an under needle carrier having the following united parts: a mutilated shaft engaged in said Abearing and a needle holder and a spoke extending from holder to shaft, said shaft or bearing provided with means for retaining the shaft seated in contact with the bearing, the mutilation of said bearing and shaft consisting of a substantial absence of material at the upper portions thereof.

et. In a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling under and upper threads, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination a stock provided with a mutilated bearing, mechanism for reciprocating an under needle carrier, and an under needle carrier having the following united parts: a mutilated sha-ft engaged in said bearing and a needle holder, and a spoke extending from holder to shaft, said shaft and bearing provided with means for retaining the shaft seated in contact with the bearing, said retaining means comprising inter-engaging ribs or flanges upon bearing and shaft.

5. In a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling under and upper threads, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination a stock pro- `vided with a mutilated bearing, mechanism for reciprocating an under needle carrier, and an under needle carrier having the following united parts: a mutilated shaft engaged in said bearing and a needle holder, and a spoke extending from holder to shaft, said shaft and bearing provided with means for retaining the shaft seated in contact with the bearing, said retaining means cornprising a longitudinal flange at each end of said shaft, and means on the bearing to engage said flanges.

6. In a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling under and Lipper threads, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination a stock provided with a mutilated bearing, mechanism for reciprocating an under needle carrier, and an under needle carrier having the following united parts: a mutilated shaft engaged in said bearing and a needle holder, said shaft and bearing provided with means for retaining the shaft seated in contactwith the bearing, said retaining means comprising inter-engaging ribs or flanges upon bearing and shaft, and means to prevent longitudinal shaft movement.

7. In a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling under and upper threads, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination a stock provided with a mutilated bearing, mechanism for reciprocating an under needle carrier, and an under needle carrier having the following united parts: a mutilated shaft engaged in said bearing and a needle holder, said shaft and bearing provided with means for retaining the shaft seated in contact with the bearing, said retaining means comprising a longitudinal flange at each end of said shaft, and means on the bearing to engage said flanges, both said flanges extending in one direction, and a removable contact piece against which the shaft end contacts to prevent the shafts movement in the opposite direction.

8. In a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling under and upper threads, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination a stock provided with a mutilated bearing, mechanism for reciprocating an under needle carrier, and an under needle carrier having the following united parts: a mutilated shaft engaged in said bearing and a needle holder, and a spoke extending from holder to shaft, and an operating extension through which said reciprocating mechanism operates to reciprocate the carrier, the mutilation of said bearing and shaft consisting of a substantial absence of material at the upper portions thereof.

9. In a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling under and upper threads, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination a stock provided with a mutilated bearing, an under needle carrier having the following united parts: a mutilated shaft engaged in said bearing and a needle holder, a swinging eX- tension; and mechanism for reciprocating said carrier comprising an up-and-down reciprocating actuator and a long upright link from the actuator to said extension, said link pivoted above directly to the extension and pivoted below directly to the actuator.

l0. In a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling `under and upper threads, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination, a shiftable stock and the following elements supported by said stock, namely: a movable under needle carrier, a movable thread looper, a movable actuator adapted to be eXteriorly operated independently of the stocks shifting, and connections whereby said actuator act-uates said carrier and looper, said connections comprising a part, as link 70, connected to both said actuator and said carrier and provided with a device, as cam 7 5, for effecting the oscillation of said looper.

l1. In a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling under and upper threads, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination, a shiftable stock and the following elements supported by said stock, namely: a movable under needle carrier, a movable thread looper, a vertically sliding actuator adapted to be eX- teriorly operated independently of the stocks shifting, and connections whereby said actuator actuates said carrier and looper, said connections comprising a long upright link pivoted above directly to a part rigid with the carrier, and below to the actuator, whereby said link through up and down movements at its upper end may effect reciprocation of said carrier.

l2. In a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling under and upper threads, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination, a shiftable stock and the following elements supported by said stock, namely: a movable under needle carrier, mounted to move in an inclined plane, a movable thread looper, a movable actuator adapted to be eXteriorly operated independently of the stocks shifting, and connectionsV whereby said actuator actuates said carrier and looper, said connections comprising a long upright link pivoted above directly to a part rigid with the carrier, and below to the actuator by universal pivots, whereby said link through up and down movements at its upper end may effect reciprocation of said carrier.

13. In a butto-n hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling under and upper threads, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination, a shiftable stock and the following elements supported by said stock, namely: a movable under needle carrier, a movable thread looper, a movable actuator adapted to be exteriorly operated independently of the stocks shifting, and connections whereby said actuator actuates said carrier and looper, said connections comprising a block, a long upright link connected above to the carrier, and below to the actuator through said block secured to the actuator, the point of connection between link and block being offset with respect to the actuator, a rock shaft, and said link provided with a cam adapted to act through the rock shaft for oscillating the looper, and such rock shaft.

14. In a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling under and upper threads, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination, a shiftable stock and the following elements supported by said stock, namely: a movable under needle carrier, a movable thread looper, a vertically sliding actuator adapted to be eX- tericrly operated independently of the stocks shifting, connections whereby said actuator effects said loopers reciprocation, and a link pivoted. at one end directly to the actuator and at the other end directly to a part rigid with the carrier whereby said actuator eifects the carriers oscillation.

15. In a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling under and upper threads, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination, a shiftable stock and the following elements supported by said stock, namely: a movable under needle carrier, a movable thread looper, a movable actuator adapted to be exteriorly operated independently of the stocks shifting, connections whereby said actuator eff fects said loopers reciprocation, a direct link connection whereby said actuator effects the carriers oscillation, and connections whereby said link oscillates said looper.

1G. In a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling under and upper threads, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination, a shiftable stock and the following elements supported by said stock, namely: a movable under needle carrier, a movable thread looper, a movable actuator adapted to be eXteriorly operated independently -of the Legami` kstocks shifting, connections whereby said actuator effects said loopers rec1procat1on,l

a direct link connection whereby said actuator eects the carriers oscillation, and connections whereby the actuator oscillates said looper, the last named connections including a cam carried by said link.

17. In a button hole sewing machine of the type having meansfor controlling under and upper threads, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination, a shiftable stock and the following elements supported by said stock, namely: a movable under needle carrier, a movable thread looper, a movable actuator adapted to be eX- teriorly operated stocks shifting, and connections whereby said actuator actuates said Vcarrier and looper, said actuator consisting of a vertically reciprocating rod, as rod 25, movably fitted to said stock, a block or enlargement on said rod having a plurality of vertical contact surfaces, and said stock being adapted to have sliding contact with said surfaces during the rods mo-vements, whereby rotation of the rod is prevented, and an apertured pin-plate secured to said block having an aperture for the lower thread, and a pin for controlling a lower thread take-up.

18. In a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling under and upper threads, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination, a shiftable stock and the followingelements supported by said stock, namely: a movable under needle carrier, a movable thread looper, a movable actuator' adapted to be exteriorly operated independently of the stocks shifting, and connections whereby said actuator actuates said carrier and looper, said actuator consisting of a vertically reciprocating rod, as rod 25, movably fitted to said stock, a block or enlargement on said rod having a plurality of vertical contact surfaces, and said stock being adapted to have sliding contact with said surfaces during the rods movements, whereby rotation of the rod is prevented, and an apertured pin-plate secured to said block having an aperture for the lower thread, and a pin for co-ntrolling a lower thread take-up, and an intermediary connected to said block for effecting movements of said looper and carrier.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

JOHN KIEl/VICZ. vWitnesses:

T. J. EARLY, F. A. SHEA.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for ve cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents. Washington, D. C.

independently of the 

